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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.